Original-Line 
AC-Line 
AC-Line UK 
TP-Line
The Original-Line and AC-Line Suspension Blocks are replacements for the cylindrical block.
The TP-Line Suspension Block is a replacement for the Advanced Suspension Block (non-cylindrical).
• Extra Firm Suspension Block in TPU materials (colours at the bottom and on the buy page).
• Similar firmness to the CHPT3 red block (stiff and high performance
• 3D Printed with 3 different internal density zones to absorb a wide range of vibrational frequencies.
• Original-Line is less than 25g (replacing the standard block which is 31g)
• AC-Line is less than 35g (replacing the standard block and striker plate which is 37g).
• TP-Line is less that 24g (replacing the standard block which is 32g).
• Can install Striker Plate upside down to prevent rear triangle locking (AC-Line).
• Aesthetically blended shape (not applicable for Original-Line).
• Increased ground clearance when folded (not applicable for Original-Line).
AC-Line 
AC-Line 
AC-Line 
AC-Line 
AC-Line 
AC-Line 
TP-Line 
TP-Line
Firmness
It is generally regarded in order of firmness from least to most :
1. Brompton Original.
2. Brompton Standard (as fitted to new Bromptons).
3. Brompton Firm.
= Brompton CHPT3 red block.
= Original-Line, AC-Line & TP-Line Suspension Blocks.
6. Joseph Kuosac Suspension block.
I would say that my block is comparable to the Red CHPT3 suspension block. Here you can see the stiffness on a Brommie :
AC-Line Instructions
First is to familiarise yourself with the Brompton suspension block removal and assembly procedure, as described in this video by Brilliant Bikes :
Re-use the main pin/bolt and washers from the standard Brompton suspension, just replacing the rubber block and Striker Disc with the AC-Line version.
The existing pin is a tight fit in the existing Striker Disc, it takes a small tap with a hammer to push it out. Hold the components as follows and tap out the pin :
Once removed you can press the pin into the new Striker Plate by tapping the head of the pin while supporting the plate underneath with the new suspension block itself.
The re-assembly is now the same as fitting a normal suspension block as described in the video above.
Tighten the main pin enough to close up all the gaps but do not over tighten otherwise the Striker Plate can over bend and the pin head will not engage the latch.
